Bring Life To Your Photos In Lightroom Classic - Design Post 12
Introduction
There is beauty in many places that we come across. Just
yesterday we were driving down the road, and the sun was setting behind some grey
and white clouds in the middle of a bright blue sky. You could see the sun's rays
bursting out from behind the clouds, and the reflection of the water and other
objects made the sky turn shades of pink and orange. It was beautiful, and I
decided to snap a shot while we were driving down the road. It was a good picture,
but I felt that it had much more potential.
There is an article in Photoshop User’s magazine October
2023rd edition titled “BRING LIFE TO YOUR PHOTOS IN LIGHTROOM
CLASSIC” by Serge Ramelli this article made me think of this picture. This article explains how to take an ok/boring photo
and bring out its full potential.
The photo Serge Ramelli used was a picture taken in Paris,
France capturing the Eiffel Tower in a distance lit up during the “blur hours”.
Bring Life To Your Photos In Lightroom Classic
STEP 1: When you take photos at specific times of the
day, they can get noisy. This picture was taken during the “blur hours” so the
ISO needed to be higher but as low as you can get it. The aperture was set at
1/40s.
To get rid of the noise you can right-click the thumbnail.
Select Enhance, turn on Denoise, and set the amount of Denoise that is
appropriate for your photo.
STEP 2: The exposure was off so you can correct this
by adjusting the shadows, highlights, black and white points, and the contrast.
STEP 3: The picture was cropped using the Crop
Overlay too. When you crop photos do not leave objects half in the picture and
half out. The focus of the picture in the article is the Eiffel Tower. Ramelli
likes to crop his photos to 16x9 for a more cinematic feel. In the Tool Panel
you can set your Crop Aspect Ratio.
STEP 4: The sky is too bright in this picture, so if
something is too bright you can correct the white balance. There are several preset
options to choose from or you can select As Shot or Auto. These are found in
the Basic Panel. Ramelli selected Auto, and he tweaked the Temperature to 7,795,
and the Tint to +27.
STEP 5: In this step Ramelli used the HSL Panels. He
selected the Hue tab and the Targeted Adjustment tool. You can pick a specific
color in your photo and the Hue will change according to the colors. Then you
can go in and adjust everything as you feel necessary.
Warmer colors are added to this photo so he set the Blue to
+1, the Red to -6, and the Magenta to -2.
STEP 6: The saturation in the HSL Panel was adjusted
to +32 for Red, +31 for Orange, and +34 for Yellow.
STEP 7: In the Luminance tab, the Blue’s were
darkened by -30. You have to be careful with adjusting the Luminance. This is
how light are dark the photo is, and the picture can change drastically very
quickly.
STEP 8: The Dodge and Burn tool is a great tool to
take this photo to the next level. This makes some areas darker and some areas
lighter where there is light in the photo. Create a mask of the sky by selecting
the circle with a dotted outline. Lower the Temperature to -4, and raise the
Tint to +21.
STEP 9: Create a new mask, and select the Linear
Gradient option. To darken the top of the photo. Draw a gradient from the top
of the photo to the end of the sky. Lower the Exposure to -0.60 and the Temperature
to -28.
STEP 10: Create a new mask, and select the Brush
Tool. Set the exposure to 0.60 and the Clarity to -53. Using your bush in dodge
and burn paint over the brighter highlights to make the glow. You can change
the size of your brush by pressing the Bracket keys.
STEP 11: Create another Brush. Press k to do this.
Set the Exposure to 1.93 and the Clarity to -23. Paint over some of the
highlights that aren’t as bright.
STEP 12: Create another Brush Mask. Set the Flow and
Density to 100. Brush over the bottom portion of the photo. Click Curves to add
Contrast and Color to the photo. You will see 4 circles at the top. The first
circle is the Point Curve (the white circle). This changes the colors of the
whole image. To change the contrast 2 points will be added to this curve. Click
on the lower part of the curve to add a point, and set the Input to 64 and the Output
to 59. Click on the upper part of the curve to add a point, and set the Input
to 167 and the Output to 177.
Select to Red Channel. This is the Red Channel. A point this
cure that is 121/125. The higher you move the point the redder it will get. The
lower you go, the greener it will get.
Select the Green Channel. Add a point at 125/131, and then Select
the Blue Channel and add a point at 133/131.
These settings are all subjective to the photo that was
taken.
STEP 13: To bring the viewer’s attention to the main
subject more, create two more Linear Gradients one to the top right corner and
one to the top left corner. The exposure will be set to -0.58 for both, and the
Temperature will be set to -44 for the left side and -17 for the right side.
STEP 14: For the overall image, set the Texture to +21,
and the Clarity to +14. This is also subjective.
STEP 15: In the last step, Ramelli sharpens the
photo. He says one way to check if you have noise is to look at the sky. He sets
the Sharpening Amount to 75 and Masking to 70. By holding down option while
masking, your image will turn black and white. The black parts will not be
sharpened, and the white parts will. Don’t sharpen the sky or water elements.
Conclusion
The effects that these edits had on this photo were
astounding. I love how this pretty bland image transformed into a breathtaking
photo. It is incredible to see how these features in Lightroom can be manipulated
to make beautiful pieces. Some of the effects and tools I have used, but some
of them I have not. Something I find myself doing is sticking to the natural
colors of the picture. I am trying to venture out more. I believe this also
comes with a bit more experience using these tools. I need to become more comfortable
using them. These articles are also very helpful in learning how to manipulate tools in Lightroom to create amazing works of
art.
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